Super Glue Woes

I'm not sure if anyone else has this problem, but from time to time, super glue lets me down when trying to glue metal bits together. Sometimes it grabs and dries right away and that's what I would expect it to do, but the odd time the glue just doesn't want to grab and/or dry. Parts are clean, no temperature change (from washing parts.....I never try to glue right away after washing parts) and the glue is actually a quality brand of glue (BSI-Bob Smith Industries). So not sure what causes this.

Anyone else had to content with this?? It's really annoying.

Todd,
I have had this happen occasionally. I always check to make sure there is not "too much" glue, sometimes "wicking" up the extra helps, but not often. When this happens, I usually set the pieces aside and let them dry overnight, of course that doesn't work in every situation. I also move on to something else that does not require gluing, and came back another day. Personally i suspect it the humidity.

-BadMoon

Thanks BadMoon. Yeah I set these pieces aside yesterday and had another go today, with the same result. Yesterday I was able to glue my pilots to their painting nails and they dried as expected. In the same session, the gunner wouldn't glue properly.

Currently Vancouver has a low humidity index, and it's raining and cooler today, so I doubt that's the issue.

The most common cause of not sticking, or sticking but with a weak bond, is too much glue. This is truly a case of less being better.

Tom

I'm getting to the end of the bottle too, so I'm wondering if there's a lack of consistency with what's left. Maybe time to break out the new bottle.

Well that was a bust, even using a small amount of the new stuff. Ah well.... time to break out the 2 part epoxy. At least I know what will dry dependably.

BravoSix wrote:Currently Vancouver has a low humidity index, and it's raining and cooler today, so I doubt that's the issue.

While it may not be "humidity" per se it can be too much moisture in the air and raining won't help that.

Maybe just try a new tube?
I usually go for the 4-pack at Walmart for about $1.65.
They used to have the best super glue. It was some generic brand from China in black tubes. They stopped selling it a few years ago. Probably never tested by the EPA.

I have had good luck with the Gorilla Glue version of super glue.

Tom

It has happened to me toward the end of bottle especially. I use Loctite Ultracontrol Gel.

hayeswauford wrote:I use Loctite Ultracontrol Gel.

I use this stuff as well as it gives great control of the flow with the flow buttons on each side of the bottle.

I read that scoring both ends to be glued sometimes helps the bonding process, so I scored the figures and used a jeweller file to rough up the nail head and it finally worked.

I use huge amounts of the stuff and so used to use the cheap £ shop stuff which is very watery. Having sworn a lot, glued my fingers and even got it in my eye I recently started buying Gorilla super glue. It comes in two forms. Thick and not so thick. Works very well.

One thing that I have learnt is patience. Glue something and leave it for a while to set before moving on.

There are also "kickers" available for super glue. I often use Gorilla Glue super glue and put a drop of the kicker on one of the pieces, the glue on the other. That is an almost instantaneous bond. So, you want to have the pieces aligned correctly.

Some people maintain that while the kicker makes it bond quicker, it is a weaker bond. I have a very knowledgeable friend who manages a model train/plastic model kit hobby shop who maintains the weaker bond allegation is untrue. But his experience is not with wargaming pieces that get handled a lot. I have never really figured out if the allegation of a weaker bond is true or not.

However, what I often do is use the kicker with the super glue. Then I reinforce the joint with 5 minute epoxy cement. Some joints do not offer a very good way to do that, but most of the time I can do it. Sometimes I have to put the epoxy on very carefully and sparingly, often with a round toothpick with the point shaved down even more with a knife.

Tom

My favorite kicker for super glue is...white glue. You can also use water.

White glue is super handy when you want the "kicker" to stay in place. A tiny dab of white glue is thick enough to stay put where a liquid would run all over. And the bond is near instant, and very strong. Great for fiddly bits, and for filling small gaps - the CA/White glue forms a kind of gel before setting.

Just used it to attach the steering wheel to my 15mm Mule - the kit has no tabs or slots so white glue to the rescue.

Nice tip from The Mouse. I'll try that.

Tom

I do the white glue kicker quite a bit.

I'll have to try this kicker thing next time around.

Just an update.....

That white glue kicker worked AWESOME! Thanks guys!

All this glue talk make we wonder if we should sticky this thread?

Bazinga!!

I always use this , never fails , not sure what the US-Canadian version would be https://www.amazon.co.uk/Plastic-Padding-Super-Steel-Epoxy/dp/B004KIW9PC/ref=asc_df_B004KIW9PC/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309800630830&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13976865520133997813&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9045912&hvtargid=pla-696738829816&psc=1